We would have set off earlier had I not decided to clean out my platypus hydration tube. This took longer than I anticipated, due to the difficulty in removing bullets of saturated kitchen roll while using a wire coat hanger and a bicycle pump.
Because of my useless pipe-cleaning episode, we made it up to Fort William just after 7pm and decided that the Glen Nevis campsite would be ok for the night. I just want to add here that the woman on reception is a great ambassador for this campsite. She is always very cheery and willing to help out, and on this occasion she had clocked off and was getting in her car to leave, but still happy to direct us to our pitch and on-site facilities.
The normal deerfield area was closed for the winter, so we were pitched alongside a handful of other back-packing tents on the caravan area in front of the main entrance. Underfoot it was nice and flat with short, spongy, mossy grass which made an ideal sleeping arrangement. A thing I love about this site is the Tawny Owl soundtrack as you drift off to sleep.
The next day we drove up through Glen Shiel and could easily have been persuaded to do the southern ridge walk if only we had an extra car to drive us back to the Cluanie Inn. We continued on and decided to head up to Torridon. Plans to camp beside the Youth Hostel here were scrapped when we saw the state of the small boggy area set aside as a free camping zone. Yes, there is a toilet/shower block, but sadly nowhere to park other than the firestation which was emblazoned with anti-parking signage.
A wild camp looked on the cards, but as with most areas of Scotland, overnight parking is the main problem. I really think that authorities should consider this and allow a certain number of layby areas to permit overnight stays so that responsible campers can park and then hike to an out of sight area at altitude to wild camp.
We pushed on up the road towards Ullapool, and decided to try a campsite in Gairloch.
No other tents were here at all and only a few caravans were dotted around the large field. A pleasant evening was somewhat dampened not only by the rain, but also by an over-zealous permanent resident who insisted that Alfie was kept on a lead at all times. Had we met this gentleman earlier in the day I would have packed up and moved to another site. Instead after a few heated exchanges we bedded down for the night in our tent. Alfie our springer spaniel is for the most part an excellent close controlled dog who returns to whistle and never ventures further than my arms can throw his ball, but some people sadly tar all dogs with the same brush.
Up early the next morning, we were eager to leave behind the restrictive site. A rainy night before was now turning into a pleasant dry day, which made for an enjoyable drive south. We stopped to explore the 914 outdoor shop at Eilean Donan Castle, where Shona got a nice pair of Ron Hills and I invested in a Deuter bladder tube cleaner! Happy days.
In the afternoon we reached Glen Coe and with the weather being so nice we decided to walk along the lower glen trails, so often missed out in our eagerness to gain altitude. Alfie had great fun messing about in the River Coe and it was nice to just relax and enjoy the tranquility of the glen with it's clear waters and only a light breeze.
